Hand cream
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Distilled water, oils, emulsifier and preservative, measured by weight. A real lotion with a preservative, so it keeps.
What You’ll Need
Water phase (heated)
- 59.25 g | 59.25% distilled water
- 15 g | 15% vegetable glycerine
- 1.5 g | 1.5% panthenol powder (vitamin B5)
- 0.15 g | 0.15% xanthan gum
Oil phase (heated)
- 3 g | 3% Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
- 4 g | 4% cetearyl alcohol
- 6 g | 6% hemp seed oil
- 5 g | 5% coco-caprylate
- 3 g | 3% castor oil
- 1 g | 1% beeswax
Cool down phase
- 1.5 g | 1.5% Optiphen Plus (broad-spectrum preservative)
- 0.3 g | 0.3% allantoin
- 0.3 g | 0.3% Vitamin E MT-50
Equipment
- double boiler
- whisk
Directions
- Bring about 3 cm (1 inch) of water to a gentle simmer over low to medium-low heat in a wide sauté pan.
- Weigh the water phase into one glass cup and write down the combined weight of the cup and its contents. Weigh the oil phase into a second cup.
- Set both cups in the water bath for about 20-30 minutes, until the oil phase has melted and the water phase has fully dissolved.
- Lift off the heat. Weigh the water phase cup again and add hot distilled water to bring it back up to the recorded weight. Pour the water phase into the oil phase and stir.
- Blend with an immersion blender in short bursts: first about 1 minute, then rest 10 minutes, then blend 1-2 minutes; keep repeating until the cup is barely warm and the cream is thick.
- Once cool, weigh the cool down ingredients into a small dish, add a scoop or two of the cream, and stir, then stir that back into the whole batch.
- Package it up.
Notes
A small dollop covers both hands. It's too thick for a pump, so use jars or squeeze tubes. Because it contains water, it must have a broad-spectrum preservative (don't skip it). Throw it out if the color, scent, or texture changes. Safety: this is a weighed recipe, so swaps change the result. Do a patch test first, and take care with the hot water bath.
