Thai Constellation Monstera, also known as Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation,’ is a variegated form of the classic Swiss cheese plant. Its big, glossy green leaves are dusted with creamy speckles and streaks, like a sky full of stars, which is where the name comes from. It was developed through tissue culture in a lab in Thailand, so every plant is a clone with the same starry pattern. Like the green Monstera deliciosa, it’s in the Araceae family, the same family as pothos and philodendrons, and the species is native to the tropical forests of southern Mexico and Central America. It’s hardy only in zones 10-12, so for most of us it’s a houseplant all year.
Young plants start out with solid, heart-shaped leaves, like the lower leaves on mine. As the plant matures and gets good light, new leaves come in bigger, with the splits and holes (called fenestrations) that monsteras are famous for. My newest leaf on top is my first one with splits, so it’s on its way. Not bad for a plant I bought on clearance!
One thing that makes Thai Constellation special is that its variegation is stable. With many variegated plants, like the Monstera Albo, the variegation can be unpredictable and leaves can revert to all green. Thai Constellation holds its speckled pattern much more reliably, and cuttings keep the variegation, too.
It wants bright, indirect light. Light keeps the speckles bright and helps the leaves grow bigger and split. An east-facing window, or a spot a few feet back from a south or west window, works well. Keep it out of hot direct sun. The cream areas have little chlorophyll, so they scorch and brown easily. In low light, new leaves stay small, splits are slow to come, and the stems stretch and lean.
Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry, then water thoroughly until it runs out the drainage holes. Empty the saucer so it isn’t sitting in water. Monsteras don’t like soggy soil, which leads to yellow leaves and root rot. In winter, when growth slows, it will need water less often.
It’s happiest at 65°F to 85°F. Keep it away from cold drafts, cold windows, and heating and air conditioning vents. Below 55°F, it can be damaged. It likes humidity, ideally 50% or higher. A humidifier, a pebble tray, or grouping it with other plants helps, especially in winter when the heat is running. Good humidity also helps keep the cream areas from browning.
Use a chunky, well-draining aroid mix, like potting soil with orchid bark and perlite mixed in, in a pot with drainage holes. Feed a balanced water-soluble fertilizer monthly in spring and summer, and skip it in fall and winter. It grows slower than a green monstera, since the variegated parts can’t make as much food for the plant, so be patient.
Monsteras are natural climbers. In the wild, they grow up tree trunks using their aerial roots, the brown, rope-like roots that grow from the stems. A moss pole or stake gives it something to climb, which keeps it tidy and encourages larger, more split leaves. Gently tie the stems to the pole, and tuck the aerial roots toward it. If aerial roots get unruly, you can trim them without harming the plant. Indoors, a mature plant can reach 6-8 feet tall.
Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks to keep them dust free, and trim off any yellow or damaged leaves at the base.
Variegation can vary from leaf to leaf. Most leaves are evenly speckled, but now and then a leaf comes in with a big creamy section. It’s gorgeous, but the cream part can’t make food for the plant and is more likely to brown, so don’t be surprised if it doesn’t last as long.
You can propagate it by stem cuttings. Cut just below a node, the bump on the stem where a leaf and aerial root grow, making sure the cutting has a node and at least one leaf. Root it in water or moist sphagnum moss, keep it warm and in bright, indirect light, and pot it up once the roots are a few inches long. It’s slow to root, so be patient.
Repot every year or two in spring, when roots start circling the pot. Go up just one pot size.
Most problems come back to water, light, or dry air:
- Yellow leaves usually mean too much water.
- Brown, crispy patches on the cream areas mean dry air or too much direct sun.
- Small leaves with no splits mean it needs more light, or is still young.
- Drooping leaves usually mean it’s thirsty.
- Watch for spider mites (fine webbing under the leaves), thrips (silvery streaks), and mealybugs (white cottony bits). Neem oil or insecticidal soap takes care of all three.
Monsteras are toxic to cats, dogs, and people if chewed. They contain calcium oxalate crystals, which irritate the mouth and can cause drooling and vomiting. The sap can irritate skin, so wear gloves when taking cuttings.
Striking, stable, and worth the wait. I’d put it in the moderate care category. Give it bright light, steady humidity, and something to climb, and it will grow into a showstopper.
| Common Name | Thai Constellation Monstera |
|---|---|
| Botanical Name | Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ |
| Family | Araceae |
| Mature Size | 6-8 ft. tall indoors |
| Sun | Bright, Indirect |
| Soil | Chunky, well-drained, Slightly acidic |
| Native Area | Cultivar; species native to southern Mexico and Central America |
| Toxicity | Toxic to humans and pets |
